Sunday, April 4, 2010

"Food Revolution" Does It Right

I'm totally hooked after the first couple of episodes of "Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution." Not just because of Oliver's passion and penchant for annoying stubborn lunch ladies, but because Oliver is doing what so many aren't willing to do— educate.

This reality show follows British chef Jamie Oliver as he sets out to change the nation's eating habits starting in Huntington, W. Va., which has been called the unhealthiest city in the country. He wants to convince U.S. schools to prepare meals using fresh ingredients and eliminate the use of processed food. He wants to change the way people think about food and get them to make better choices. His hope is to start reducing childhood obesity, which is a major problem in the U.S. (see my previous blog).

Oliver beats his head up against a wall trying. From the lunch ladies who don't think change is reasonable  to the administration's red tape, Oliver proves that changing the way Americans think about food is hard work. Especially when guidelines for what constitutes "healthy" is clearly out of date.

How does a fried chicken sandwich and fries pass as healthy? And veggie stir fry with fruit jello fail? Apparently fries and the optional salad cover the veggie requirement and the stir fry veggies are too small of a portion. It's frustrating to watch Oliver fight what appears to be common sense, but he's so committed. "Food Revolution" is clearly Oliver's "baby."

One Huntington elementary school allows Oliver to observe and cook meals by his design for one week. All his tricks and skills bounce right off the kids who just want to eat pizza and the staff who have little money or policy backing to do otherwise.

Oliver tries to break kiddies' bad food perceptions, which would be funny if it weren't so scary. He gathers a group to demonstrate what goes in those yummy chicken nuggets they love, which of course, is meant to be a total gross out.

He takes what's left off a chicken (after the meat you're supposed to eat is cut off) and grinds it up together just like the manufacturers do.  This includes bones, tissue and whatever little scrapings of meat left over that you would assume goes in the trash . Not true.  Cue the eeeeewwwww.

Oliver sifts it all into a meat paste, which he shapes, tosses in bread crumbs and then throws it in the fryer. As it sizzles away, he victoriously inquires, who's ready to eat? His question is answered with raised hands and curious faces, volunteering as eager taste testers.

"I'll eat anything. I'm just hungry," replies one excited little girl. Oliver looks like a deer caught in the headlights who might be eaten afterward.

Yep, kids will eat anything. Except the stuff that's crucial for their health. And parents aren't helping. They pass on their own bad habits and don't make themselves aware of the school's food choices.

Oliver reaches out to help change the habits of one family where each member is overweight, if not already obese. He raids the cabinets and refrigerator, finding product after product of high-calorie, highly processed junk. Freezer packed with frozen pizza. Veggies scarcely found. Empty fast-food cup on a living room table.

This may sound like a judgement—wagging finger and all—of Huntington, but Oliver is careful to explain that's not his intention. It's a reflection of the entire country and includes his own (United Kingtom) in that message. He often speaks highly of the people and the Huntington area admitting that he just wants to make a change. And what better place to start than the one marked as impossible? Oliver's hope is a victory in the unhealthiest place will show the rest they can follow.

To be fair to Huntington's initial stubbornness, they felt attacked. No one likes to hear criticism from an outsider, a British celebrity chef, who's there to "fix" you although not Oliver's words. It's natural to push back. The city is located in one of the country's poorest states so it's easy to see how people may feel someone like Oliver is out of touch with their real circumstances. It's a fact. People don't like change.

But Oliver is sincere about wanting to give people the tools to make manageable changes for the sake of their health. As a parent, he is frustrated and gets teary-eyed at the sight of what has become the status quo of food for the first generation of kids who run the risk of living shorter lives than their parents. The elementary school he visits doesn't even serve food that should be eaten with a knife and fork because they have none. The cameras show the combativeness of school administration and staff, but are good to reveal that it's not always careless disregard, but lack of funding to provide better.A clear statement on what kind of food the kids are getting.

I was thrilled that the show addressed realistic issues such as budgets, or lack thereof, and forced Oliver to come up with tangible solutions for how to pursue his goal. How refreshing-- a reality show that actually deals with reality.

As a native West Virginian and former overweight person, I think this is a cause worth watching and backing. I had no idea how bad school meals had gotten. The parents Oliver reaches out to were oblivious. I am happy to see someone be ambitious enough to tackle this issue through education and inspiration.

I hope Huntington proves you don't need laws to make positive change because they will choose it themselves. It won't be easy, but if they're able to do it, there's hope for everyone else. I can't wait to watch more of this mini-series on ABC airing Fridays at 9 p.m.

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